Feeding the Devils

Full Cappelletti (or Ravioli) Recipe from Motherlode

I uploaded the full, 11 minute long pasta making video I made for my cousin (minus the NYT intro) to YouTube. You should be able to see it above, but if not, it’s here.

Ready to roll.

I posted a video and some thoughts about sharing a kitchen’s worth of ethnic heritage to the NYT Motherlode, and several commenters asked for the full recipe, so here goes. This is SO not in proper NYT recipe style! But it’s worked for years. Decades. Generations. I guess that’s the point.



1 lb ground meat mixture (pork/beef/chicken) fried in ½ stick butter
3 cups grated cheese, half romano, half parmesan
1 cup bread crumbs
salt, pepper
3 garlic cloves
pinch nutmeg
3 eggs

Fry meat in butter with three garlic cloves, add salt, pepper. Remove garlic cloves after cooking. Add pinch nutmeg. When cool add beaten eggs, cheese, bread crumbs, mix well. Refrigerate at least an hour or over night. Can freeze extra filling, but do NOT defrost in microwave—let it defrost in fridge. I know, that seems obvious, but still.


Food processor before gasping last desperate breaths.

4 eggs
approx. 2 ¼ cups flour

Mix eggs in mixer or food processor, add all flour, mix slowly until dough ball forms, then switch do dough hook and let it beat around a while. Take it out and knead it by hand, then leave it in the fridge until ready to use. At least an hour is best, but you can use it right away if you don’t mind sticky. I should probably say I have killed two food processors this way, but this last one has hung on a while.

Part-way mixed.

Ready to come out and knead by hand.

Squoosh, squoosh. It’s harder than it looks. Italian grandmas have great arms.

You can see another post on making pasta, with more detailed illustrations on rolling it (although I made spaghetti with it that time, but the dough is always the same) here.

You’ll have to watch the video for the fold, and you can also see my mother making the filling with me grilling her at every step (and you can hear how approximate the recipe really is, as she sits there going “well, I think I put in a cup of bread crumbs…maybe half a cup, it just depends) and watch me make a small batch of dough with her grilling me at every step (and me saying “well, I think I put in a cup of flour, it depends…). Or you can just make ravioli, which you make exactly like you’d think you’d make them. Fold the dough over the filling, cut, seal. Mom does that way at the end of the video, about minute 10.

A perfect sheet of dough.

Cappelletti, I need hardly say, goes in soup. Any soup. Growing up, my mom used Wyler’s beef boullion cubes, which I can’t even spell now, let alone find, and I loved it them. I use boxed chicken broth, or very occasionally real soup, which is honestly too rich most of the time.

Ravioli goes in sauce. I make my sauce with a big can of Muir Glen diced tomatoes with garlic and basil. First I sauté extra grated garlic, and maybe some grated onion, then I add salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and then I puree the hell out of it with my hand blender because I hate chunky sauce.

And that’s it. We freeze it in bags suited for a meal, I serve 8 ravioli to kids and 12 to adults, and figure 10-12 cappeletti each for soup. It lasts months, particularly if you have hoarding tendencies. Make a double batch of sauce, freeze half, and it’s practically an instant meal the next time. Loaf of bread, bottle of wine, you’re ready to go. I hope someone tries it. I hope my cousin Ashlyn tries it!


Rory turns the handle, circa 2011.

KJFull Cappelletti (or Ravioli) Recipe from Motherlode
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That Perverse Pride We Take In Our Weird Families

This could end really well.

Or—let’s be honest here—it could go really badly.

Lily requested cheeseburgers for dinner tonight on this, a fantastic day for grilling, and cheeseburgers she shall have. And, she said, those french fries you make, by which she means the Yukon Golds in cold peanut oil from Cook’s Illustrated. But I stopped by the farmstand on the way home for the potatoes, and they are unquestionably not Yukon Gold, but some type of russet. And when a Cook’s Illustrated recipe says, as this one does, this will not work with russet potatoes, you listen.

So I shifted to their oven french fries recipe. And for good measure, because even though we eat plenty of vegetables, you can always use a little extra vegetable, I decided to put some carrots in. Why not Carrot Oven Fries, I ask you? There’s probably some reason why not, but I don’t know it yet.

I may be able to tell you later.

Look at those even slices!

So, as directed, I sliced the potatoes in even wedges and soaked for ten minutes in hot tap water. Dried them on a kitchen towel. Preheated the oven to 475. (Popped the carrots, tossed in a little oil and salt, in for a pre-roast. I think they take longer than potatoes.) The instructions said to put four tablespoons of oil in the sheet pan. When I pulled the sheet pan out of the sink, I realized it just happened to already have four tablespoons of oil in it. More, probably, in the form of bacon fat from this morning’s breakfast, cooked on said pan.

Mmm...bacon fat. Oh yeah, that's appetizing.

I could wash it.

Or I could just cook the potatoes in the bacon fat. Yes, that’s been sitting in the sink all day. It’s going to heat up to 475, I tell you, what bacteria could possibly survive that?

You can just guess what I did.
Meanwhile, this is why my cheeseburgers are so good:

That's some eye-waterin' smokey awesomeness happening.

And there was this:

Smoky goodness on the fries, too. The one thing I knew for sure about this is that it would set off the smoke detector.

Ultimately it did end well. The fries were good, the “carrot fries” actually even better. But there was that moment, a moment we actually enacted this morning, too, that reminded me of how we all take a perverse pride in our own quirks, and the weirdness of our families.

I knew the french fries would set off the smoke detector. Bacon always does, and why would potatoes in bacon fat be any different? It is possible that our smoke detector is vegetarian. So as I flipped them one last time, the beeping began, and I was in mid sentence, resulting in this:

“Lily, set the table–just forks and plates please and Sam, man the smoke detector please.”

Sam found that endlessly amusing. They all love the smoke detector rigamarole. I realized this morning that Rob really hadn’t seen it, I think because bacon is usually part of breakfast-for-dinner, which we usually eat when he’s not home, but when I opened the oven door to take the bacon out, I yelled “Places” like the Mrs. in the opening scene of Mary Poppins, and everyone grabbed a magazine and ran to wave it under the smoke alarm, when it went off, which it did.

I love to see the family lore forming like this. You just know that ten years from now and far more able to reach the damn thing, they’ll still be vying to get their magazine to wave the fastest and stop the beeps.

Of course, we like to start fires, too.

KJThat Perverse Pride We Take In Our Weird Families
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A Cake for the Cake-Hater

I’m really, really proud of myself. I made a birthday cake that even my cake-hating Rory, she of the licked-off-frosting on the $3 cupcakes, loved. I’ve noticed lots of kids are like that—they’re either cake kids or frosting kids. (Me, I was and still am a cake kid, so I do sympathize.)

And I’ve noticed that our China-raised kids are often really not cake-eaters. So I’m pretty excited to share this:

Meringue! Ice Cream! Whipped Cream! More Meringue! SUGAR SUGAR SUGAR.

It’s the perfect cake for Rory. It combines three of her favorite things in all the world: meringues, ice cream and whipped cream. Also, candy letters, just for good measure. And it was incredibly easy, if kinda sticky, to make.

I started with the meringues. 6 egg whites, a pinch of cream of tartar and one of salt, a little vanilla (1 tsp maybe) and 1 1/2 cups sugar. (Standard recipe courtesy of King Arthur Flour.) Egg whites and cream of tartar whipped to stiff peaks ( a good educational moment; every child should know what that means). Sugar, poured slowly into the still-whipping mixer bowl. (Ok, the bowl is not whipping. I’m not sure how to phrase that, but surely it’s clear.) Salt and vanilla go in last.

Stiff peaks! Ok, don't be crude.

The idea is to make three circles. You could do that with a spoon, but I decided to pipe them. Onto Parchment paper. That’s important, at least, I think it is. I have never made meringues without it.

I think it would maybe be better to spoon them, because the egg white was a little melty and sticky in the openings.

I still had lots of meringue left over, so I got creative.

Those are clouds. Meringue makes perfect clouds.

Bake at 200 degrees for 2 hours, then turn the oven off and leave over night.

Ready to bake.

Now, you need two little pints or whatever it is of vanilla ice cream. Leave them in your car over pick-up and while chatting with the new parent about winter life in NH and it will be nice and soft for spreading. Maybe too soft. Then comes the layering. Put the bottom disk on your cake plate and spread the ice cream right over it. We had a really, really humid day and the meringue was sticky, but it worked. The bottom layer stuck a bit to the parchment, but once it was covered in ice cream, you’d never know it.


Back in the freezer it goes. Be sure to clear ample space in the freezer for your creation. How long will it take the ice cream to refreeze? I don’t really know. I left it for five hours, and then it was too hard, and the next layer wouldn’t really squish onto it until I let it melt again. I’d advice putting the next layer on now, and then put it back in the freezer.

This is the disk that DIDN'T stick.

Next, whip up a pint of whipping cream (I use the serious local farm stuff that practically whips if you shake the bottle) with some confectioner’s sugar. Or not. Trust me, you don’t really need more sugar at this point, but what the hell?

Spread the whipping cream on, and then top with the next layer of meringue. Then, a final layer of whipped cream and the meringue decorations. My “Happy Birthday” letters stuck–well, the “happy” did, so I improvised with the Wilton ones. I always keep a bunch around. Given that birthdays are predictable things, it’s surprising how often I find myself unprepared to make a birthday cake. The letters make anything look good. If you’re six.

Which Rory now is!

This is not the birthday post, though. This is the birthday CAKE post.

So: the only trouble with this cake is that it obviously has to be in the freezer, and the whipped cream is better if it doesn’t freeze (although it’s ok if it does), so last minute assembly is the way to go.

Here is the glorious result, sliced and ready. It really was surprisingly delicious, even from the adult perspective. The whipped cream cuts the meringue sweetness and there’s a yummy crunch to it all. And you can probably find someone else to eat the candy. (I like the candy. Don’t tell anyone.)

Yum. Seriously, yum.

Was it a hit?

It was.

KJA Cake for the Cake-Hater
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A Perfect Afternoon; or, Why Activities Are Bad; or Spaghetti Zucchini Carbonara: Yum!

Did I say it was a perfect afternoon? It was a perfect afternoon.

All children were successfully picked up after what must have been a successful day at school. Wyatt needed a few minutes of snuggling, which no other child objected to my granting. Music Teacher extraordinaire arrived, and music commenced. Homework was voluntarily embarked on. There was some bickering over the homework table, where the children without homework were doing mazes, loudly and competitively, because some children can do anything loudly and competitively. I explained to Sam why if you had a square foot to be filled with 6 inch square tiles, you would need 4 tiles, not two.

And then it was time to contemplate dinner. Dinner was planned. Dinner was on the iCal: Spaghetti Carbonara. With home-made noodles, because later this week, I’ll be bringing ravioli to Lily’s classroom for her “unique week” and although I have filling in the freezer, I needed to make the dough, and so why not make extra for dinner?

But Spaghetti Carbonara, while delicious and a perfect use for the three pieces of bacon I had in the fridge, seemed a little lacking in green stuff. And while I’d planned a salad, I found myself uninspired. I thought about raiding the garden for cherry tomatoes for Spaghetti Tomato Carbonara, but we’ve eaten a mighty lot of cherry tomatoes lately. But thinking of the garden led me, as it does many gardeners this time of year, to think of zucchini. Heck, zucchini is an honest italian veggie. At first, I thought I’d sauté it up and serve it next to the Carbonara, but that seemed so uninteresting. And so Spaghetti Zucchini Carbonara was born. Clearly you could call it Zucchini Spaghetti Carbonara, or Spaghetti Carbonara Zucchini. I’m flexible. Whatever you call it, it was delicious, and if you have a few zucchini around the house (and if you don’t, ask a gardening neighbor and you soon will), I highly recommend it. Yes, I martha stewarded my own noodles, but you needn’t. It would be just as delicious without. I suggest fusili.

Chopped bacon, diced zucchini: I was going for the same general size.

First, I chopped the zucchini and the bacon into bite sized pieces (keeping in mind that I could expect major shrinkage from the bacon). I used only one zucchini. Next time I’ll use two, as zucchini turns out to do some major shrinking here, too.

Floury pasta sheets. My dough was a little sticky.

Well, no, actually first I made pasta dough and rolled it out, which you can, if you really want to, see in more detail here. But we’ve already agreed that you’re using fusili. Next week, I’m using fusili.

I cooked it on low, because my burners run way too hot.

First I cooked up the bacon about half way to crisp. It let out lots of good bacon fat, perfect for when I added the zucchini. I cook it on low–burning it would taint the whole thing, and I am an impatient cook who often burns bacon. Not today! Probably on a regular stove, as opposed to an insane fire-breathing behemoth with burners that send flames shooting out to get you, medium would be about right.

By the way I really need a stove repair person.

I love the microplane for grating garlic.

I dumped in the zucchini–again, next time I’ll use twice as much–and let’s don’t kid ourselves, that stuff fried right up. “Sauté” my ass. I grated in two big cloves of garlic and, when the bacon and zucchini looked delicious, deglazed the lot with about 1/3 cup of wine. I did not measure the wine. Think a couple good glugs. Certainly not more than half a cup and I think a little less.

First time for this big boy job with the grater "which could really cut a tomato in half really it could."

Pros. WIth a stepstool.

Meanwhile my sous chefs grated cheese and put the pasta through the spaghetti cutter. It’s the first time I’ve pretty much left them to it, and it mostly worked out. Some of it was kinda stuck together, and some of it was on the floor for a bit, but hey, it gets boiled. In nice salty water, btw. That’s true of the fusili too. Really really salty water.

After the whisking.

Next, I cracked one egg into a pyrex and whisked it up with a cup or a little less of grated parmesan cheese.. I let the bacon/wine/zucchini/garlic cool a little, and then I whisked it into the egg/parmesan. The idea is that it cooks the egg up into a creamy sauce. You don’t want to add the egg to the pan, though, or you will have zucchini bacon wine garlic scrambled egg. If you do it in a cool pyrex (or any bowl, including your serving bowl–less dishes!) you’ll be fine. You won’t, however, be able to take a picture while you do it. Unless you have three arms, in which case you really should take a picture of that. I have to say it doesn’t look nearly as good as it tasted.

Actually I forgot the parmesan and added after, but that’s how I usually do it. Or you could add it after. This methodology is all courtesy of Cook’s Illustrated, btw, although it’s years since I actually looked at the recipe.

Serve with bread and butter and more cheese. And maybe a salad, but I didn't.


This was really so, so good, and it wasn’t because of the pasta–in fact, a more rugged pasta would actually be better in many ways. And everyone ate it, although two customers did pick out their zucchini, and a third picked his out, and then ate it that way–but no one actually objected to it, and I’ll bet after I make it a few dozen more times they’ll eat the whole thing. I loved it.

KJA Perfect Afternoon; or, Why Activities Are Bad; or Spaghetti Zucchini Carbonara: Yum!
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Again I Make the Pasta!

I think we’re going to be eating this all summer long. It’s far, far easier than it looks. Yes, I make my own pasta noodles. It’s what takes it from good to insanely spectacular.

Four eggs, about 2 1/4 cups of flour, in the mixer, then with the dough hook, then kneaded on the counter:

Two lumps, please.

Roll it out.

I managed to roll without any little helpers this time. You'll see why in a minute.

I find it’s better to let the sheets of dough rest and dry a little (as in, five minutes, while rolling out the rest of the pasta) before cutting them into spaghetti.

Dough resting next to spaghetti ready for the pot.

I don’t actually have room for all of this on my fancy pasta dryer (four wine bottles and a cookie rack).

This was really not a very good improvisation, as it made it very hard to use the sink.

Delay of game while I go replace the bike chain from one of my new bike riders (see below). And now I really need to use the sink.

I really, really need to use the sink.

Spaghetti made, it’s time to chop the tomatoes and the mozzarella (this is only going to get better when we have our own tomatoes).

I was gonna crow about my local meal, and then I realized I bought the imported bufalo mozz instead of the almost equally yummy local stuff. Shoot me.

Boil spaghetti (in water with LOTS of salt), strain, dress with olive oil, add tomatoes, mozz and a little basil (I tossed in a little Parmesan, too), lots of fresh pepper and:

Yeah, I chopped the basil after I took the picture. But doesn't it look pretty?

Best meal ever. I’m hungry again, blogging about it. A hit with all kids, although Rory said “Can I just have noodles? Well, ok, I just try it…Can I have more that? And that? I love dis!” and Lily said “I hate it. It’s awful.” and had to leave the table, because Wyatt and Sam said it was the best thing they had ever eaten and she wanted to be contrary. And then she ate the whole bowl. Mmmm…

KJAgain I Make the Pasta!
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Rice Krispies Treats Before and After

Rice Krispies Before

It was a forty minute drive to today’s party, a farewell to one of Sam’s hockey teammates whose family is moving to Wisconsin. The Big Question: How many Rice Krispie Treats (did I say Rice Krispie Treats? I meant, light, crunchy, sweet, salty, buttery, perfect Rice Krispie Treats) would make it?

Rice Krispies After

The worst part of this is that there was only one person in the car: Me.

KJRice Krispies Treats Before and After
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My Only Good Example

I’ve just finished reading Anne Lamott’s Imperfect Birds, which, long and very absorbing story short, is about an AA mother, her newly druggy teen and her writerly second husband, and how the mom and stepdad wise up to their too-clever daughter. On the surface. Under that, it is, of course, about a lot of things, and not the least is how crushed the mother is by how late it is with her daughter. She’s been her mother, and not always been great at that, and not, at least on the surface, done much else.

I actually often wonder what my kids will think of the memory of me. I don’t think they think much about me now at all, or at least, not me as me. They think of me as Mommy quite a bit. But what else will they remember me doing? Yelling, probably. Sitting at a computer. Reading? I think of myself as a reader, and I read a lot, but often on an iPad, which is indistinguishable from a laptop to a kid. I’ve vowed to return to print books and I have a fantastic pile of them going now. I’m going to make it a point to sit down with one in their view often, even though I don’t really expect to read it at that point (nor do I necessarily want to—I get really lost in a book!).

But I am 100% sure they will remember me cooking. You know all the things you pretend to like to do for one reason or another (like watch hockey) or mostly like but don’t necessarily love (yoga comes to mind here) or kind of have to be pushed into doing? Cooking isn’t one of them for me. I really do love to cook, and I love to eat well, and so I cook, and we all eat well.

The pasta machine being its true self.

We eat our share of take-out and I have plenty of uninspired nights, but especially now, when afternoons tend to require that I be up and interactive but not necessarily doing anything particularly focused with the kids, I’m really cooking again. This indoor version will last about another month before it gets too hot to cook inside and then move out and onto the grill and the salad bowl, but still, I’m finally able to mix up and try new sauces and dressings and get really excited about even a mundane meal—which is all that pasta turned out to be: spaghetti, with olive oil and parmesan, no more, no less.

Who needs a pasta rack?

There is so much I am having a hard time getting right with the kids. Helping Lily to master her moods, which are so like mine. Convincing Wyatt to be Dr. Jekyll and not Mr. Hyde. Paying attention to Sam, who is so easy and can so easily not be heard. Giving Rory an underlying web of love that she knows is solid enough to bounce on. I think I’m blowing all that.

I guess we’ll always have spaghetti.

KJMy Only Good Example
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Fresh Tortilla Fajitas

Last night, in a lucky confluence of events, I unloaded my pasta machine from the basket I’d taken to Wyatt’s classroom (biannual pasta-making demonstration) at the same moment as I began contemplating mixing up tortilla dough—and a brilliant idea was born.

Any good Texan knows that the only real tortillas are handmade tortillas, and that putting “handmade” on a baggie and then selling them in the grocery fridge section really does not count. I’ll eat those, but only under duress. If we’re eating tacos or fajitas, odds are good that I’m making tortillas, especially since I found this recipe via Homesick Texan. But as handy as I am with a rolling pin, I can never get the darn things thin enough for my liking. They still taste good, but perfection is elusive.

Enter the pasta machine.

Little balls of dough all ready to go.

I made the dough (from all white flour today since I was feeling decadent) rested it properly, and accidentally cut it into too many pieces, which turned out to be a happy accident. Got out my cast iron pan (which is badly in need of re-seasoning, and I am so not good at that). Heated it up, and rigged the pasta machine to the counter.

Getting flatter.

If you’re a pasta machine user, you’ll get it when I say that, as always, 5 was not quite thin enough but 6 was too thin. How can that possibly be true of every kind of dough out there?

The results were delicious. The reason behind the fajitas was the presence of leftover grilled steak from last week and, as a bonus, several ripe avocados.

The tortilla pile.

Rory made the guacamole and got the cheese ready.

Pasta maker disadvantage: long, oval tortillas.

It's do it yourself from here.

Dinner was a big hit with all concerned. I’ve trained them well, so there were lots of compliments for the chef, who is known to be very temperamental, and even some gratitude for the sous-chef.

There is still leftover steak. And there is still cheese, and would be guacamole, but I left it on the counter too long and the results weren’t pretty. But there are no leftover tortillas.

More tortillas please!

KJFresh Tortilla Fajitas
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Mmm…chocolate snack mix

My newest recipe, meant to save me big bucks on Rex’s Road Crew Crunch, deeply delicious, stocked by our Co-op but, in my opinion, too chock full of peanuts, which I don’t like and end up throwing away:

  • 10 cups anything in the pantry that would taste good covered in chocolate
  • 13 1/2 ounces dark chocolate, chopped and then melted in the microwave (remember you have to stir it, it won’t lose it’s shape when it melts!
  • Sea salt
  • Dump pantry product (cereal and pretzels for me, plus a few almonds) in bowl. Pour in 2/3 chocolate, Mix. Dump out on wax or parchment paper covered trays. Sprinkle rather liberally with sea salt, then pour on remaining chocolate and stir round a bit. Let cool and harden, trying not too sample. Break up. Store in airtight container if it’s humid, doesn’t really matter if it’s not. Or you could just eat it!

    KJMmm…chocolate snack mix
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    It’s so fall

    it’s the kind of day that would feel warm if it were sunny, but since it’s not, it ‘s got that whole damp and cold thing going. I’m even feeling kind of sorry for Sam’s long walk up the driveway when he gets off the school bus. He probably won’t even notice.

    So, the plan for the afternoon is to use the fruits (so to speak) of Saturday’s apple and raspberry picking to make turnovers. It occurs to me that we could even make appple-raspberry turnovers. (I was thinking just apple). And freeze them. We’ll see how that goes. Probably one of those projects that SOUNDs fun and will end in my friend Laura saying “Can’t you guys just color like everyone else?”
    But hey, I’m also thinking–guests all weekend, hiking, picking things, lots of outdoor tie–sounds like tonight’s a good night for TV!

    KJIt’s so fall
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    Easter Candy: Doling Out Sweets and Treats

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    KJEaster Candy: Doling Out Sweets and Treats
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